Black Selvage & black raw denim

Black selvage denim, in many ways, represents a modern metamorphosis of traditional indigo selvage denim. During the era when shuttle looms were the industry standard, most denim was woven from indigo-dyed warp and undyed weft yarns, creating the classic indigo-blue selvage denim. However, the emergence of black denim, especially the pitch-black variety (where both warp and weft are dyed black), gained popularity around the 1980s. This period coincided with a technological revolution in the industry, where shuttle looms were being replaced by more efficient weaving looms. Thus, black selvage denim is a blend of traditional denim craftsmanship and modern aesthetics.

What sets black selvage denim apart from conventional black denim is its dyeing process. Typically, black selvage denim is yarn-dyed in both the warp and weft, unlike conventional black denim, which is often yarn-dyed in the warp and then overdyed as a finished fabric or simply dyed as a finished fabric (known as piece-dyed). These processes are rarely applied to black selvage denim, particularly Japanese black selvage denim, for two main reasons. First, overdyeing would color the contrast yarns of the selvage edge, diminishing its distinctive appearance. Second, it would remove the starch from the fabric, resulting in a discolored selvage edge and a softer, drapier hand.

The fully yarn-dyed nature of black selvage denim offers a distinct advantage in its aging process. Without the interference of overdyeing, the denim retains its starch and the undyed core of the yarns, which allows it to form crisp creases and develop striking, contrasting wear patterns over time. The dual dyeing of both warp and weft gives denim mills greater control over the fabric’s aging characteristics. This sometimes involves using yarns that fade in the warp combined with stay-black yarns in the weft, resulting in a dynamic contrast that intensifies as the denim is worn and aged.